Towards the end of the movie Ratatouille, when the harsh snobbish French food critic warily takes a bite of the already sneered at "peasant dish" Ratatouille, he is transported back to warm and cozy kitchen of his mother where he remembers being a small boy dressed in shorts and suspenders, eating a plate of Ratatouille and knowing true bliss. So moved is the critic by this, that he starts sobbing and has to eat the proverbial humble pie.
Yesterday, I ate humble Dosa.
I am firm believer that good food is not about how fancy and classy a restaurant is, or how chic the decor is, or how cool and friendly the staff is, or (in the case of Indian food in the US) how popular the restaurant is with Americans.
Having been bombarded with praises and gushing reviews about the classy and upmarket south Indian restaurant called "Dosa" from a myriad of varied sources such as the Michelin guide (how dare the French try to tell me what good south Indian food tastes like) and the yuppy San Francisco chronicle's Top 10 Restaurants (if a white American actually liked this place, then they are probably serving americanized south Indian food with spices toned down, mango lassi drinks, and the omnipresent
chicken tikka masala and passing it off as authentic south Indian food), I was naturally overly skeptical about the quality and authenticity of the food. But then, my
tam-brahm roommate (who has exceedingly high standards for south Indian food), also raved about this place, and I was curious and so a few friends and me decided to pay a visit yesterday.
The place was packed and there was a long wait. From peeking into the restaurant we could see that the most of the clientèle and all the staff was American (hah!). It was a very modern and upscale place with several customers sitting at the bar drinking wine (double hah!). It was, therefore, with an extremely skeptical and criticizing frame of mind that I finally sat down at our table after an hour of wait (in addition to the 45 min drive to the city). I was ready to tear the place apart, criticize the food and ridicule the audacity of the place to try to claim that they served authentic south Indian food. I was on a mission.
We looked at the menu and chose our orders based less on what we felt like eating but rather based on what dishes we thought were more difficult to prepare to perfection and therefore more likely to be flawed. I happened to notice that they had
mysore masala dosa on the menu, so when the waitress had taken everyone else's order and she turned to me, I did the unthinkable, I ordered off the menu. In a insincerely sugary calm voice filled with incredulity and mock, I asked for a
plain mysore dosa. We were like wolves hungrily waiting for the waitress to falter and stop in her tracks like a deer in headlights. But wonders of wonders, without batting an eyelid she responded, "Would you like your dosa without the
masala altogether or on the side so that your friends might want to enjoy it?"
It was ironic that it was me who was caught off-guard, and had to hastily come up with something to respond.
This post is getting too long so I'll just summarize the food because by now you probably know how it was. It was sublime. The
sambar (no spices were spared to cater to a western palate), the
chutney, the
idly (I was so sure it was going to be either soggy or dry, but it was creamy and slightly pungent), the
dosa, the chicken curry (my
mallu friend had to reluctantly admit that they had got it spot on), we couldn't find a flaw. We tried, we sniffed, we swirled, we peered, but we couldn't.
When we had stuffed our bellies and the waitress came to ask us how the food was, we almost had tears in our eyes when we said that we were from south India and we thought the food was excellent. My friend jokingly asked her whether they had old Indian women in the kitchen. Her response was "Just some young men from
Tamil Nadu". At this point the critic in me could not let it go without some comment, so I said "The only minor criticism I can offer is that I think the green beans and the cauliflower were unnecessary in the chicken." to which she responded "I understand and I agree, but we get so many requests from people asking for more vegetables in dishes so we sometimes modify the dishes to suit their requests, but I will definitely take your comment to our chefs."
The thing that finally bowled me over and made me admit to myself that this place had truly captured the flavor and essence of south India (in spite of the american staff and decor) was the photograph on the wall of the restroom that I visited just before leaving. It showed the inside of a shop where several women, young and old (the old being recognizable from the back by their plump midriffs), were gathered around a couple of lanky dark men unfurling a bright and vibrant display of
kanjeevaram sarees.